Reinvention and Reincarnation of the Balmain Fashion House

With the help of its new creative designer, Olivier Rousteing, Balmain is reviving its brand name

When the Balmain x H & M collection was launched earlier, everyone expected a good reaction, but no one expected the crazy frenzy that followed. The collection was heavily praised, as it was extremely close to Olivier Rousteing’s heavy, ornate runway looks. Though the collection was praised heavily for its designs, it was criticized heavily for the prices. The clothes might be affordable as per the Balmain standards, but for a regular H & M customer, the collection was a bit pricey.

The brand Balmain has revived itself in the previous decade and has basically risen from the dead. When Pierre Balmain made his debut in 1945, he was described as a shy and youthful guy who was completely modest about his extraordinary success. He was also said to have a unique and fresh taste, and he designed with utmost precision. The new creative head of Balmain, Olivier Rousteing, is nothing like the former founder. While previously, Balmain was known for dressing the “Jolie Madame” of Paris, Rousteing has established himself as an Internet star. His collections are not in the news for the freshness and uniqueness as much as they are for the celebrities who are wearing them.

In spite of all this, Balmain’s revival answers the age-old question hovering around the fashion houses in the 21st century: How does a label maintain its legacy and spirit without losing relevance in the mainstream fashion industry? Balmain stayed intact with the elegant aesthetics of feminine looks. Along with Dior and Cristóbal Balenciaga, Balmain revitalized the fashion industry. Pierre Balmain believed that good fashion was about evolution and not revolution. He stayed close with the regalia and elegance and designed for the prim and proper damsels.

But after the death of its founder in 1932, the Balmain brand went down. This made the fashion house a frequent array of changing creative directors, Olivier Rousteing being the seventh creative director to head the fashion house till date. The change started ten years ago when Christophe Decarnin joined the fashion house as the creative director. He brought in Balmain, an individual with the personality and look of a rock star. Strategically, the prices of clothes were defined in a way that only rock stars could afford them.

So when in 2011 Decarnin’s assistant Olivier took over, the revival was bound to continue. His first collection was panned by the critics. His approach marked a major departure from Balmain’s demure style. A significant move that he made in 2012 was his omnipotent presence on Instagram. His account had shiny models honoring the small screen. This helped him establish connectivity with the masses, which made Balmain seem more accessible. Though he was highly denounced by the critics, his strategies have been effective.

The revival was a necessity. The main reason was that unlike Christian Dior and Coco Chanel, Balmain was never a household name. He was always exclusive with the upper classes. What Rousteing attempted for revival was phenomenal. In terms of prices, he kept the regalia intact, but he focused on bringing newer and fresher designs that carried on the legacy of handcrafted detail and sharp tailoring.

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