The Pour: From Etna and the Salty Sea, a White of Great Potential


Here is the latest Food News from The New York Times.

The Pour: From Etna and the Salty Sea, a White of Great Potential
The carricante grape is little known, and not much is planted, but it can make wonderfully distinctive wines.

A Good Appetite: Paratha That’s Easy, Versatile and Burnished With Butter
These Indian flatbreads are a cinch to make and at their most ethereal when eaten fresh and warm.

Eat: A Thai Shrimp Salad of Myriad Tastes
Learning to make a tart, floral, briny, tangy dish from a Thai diplomat’s family who have taken it with them around the world.

Chicken Salad | Recipe Lab
Poached chicken, fresh tarragon and buttery pecans elevate the classic chicken salad.

Hungry City: A Bit of Brazil Washes Up at Beach Bistro 96 in Queens
Croquettes, pastries and other South American snacks from a former pro surfer and his wife.

Sliced at Tableside, That’s Not Beef. It’s a Beet.
The root gets a lavish preparation at Agern, a Nordic outpost in Grand Central Terminal.

Recipe Lab: Regaining Chicken Salad’s Dignity, Any Time of Day
Make the classic with care and good ingredients to bring it back to its origins as a special-occasion summer meal.

Restaurant Review: At Mimi, French Food Is a Celebration of Appetite
An updated version of the bistro New Yorkers dream of finding in Greenwich Village.

A Sip of Prohibition-Era Cuba at BlackTail
A new downtown bar and restaurant from the Dead Rabbit team summons the Havana frequented by Hemingway and Capone.

Shave Ice’s Not-So-Refreshing Past
An academic lens takes some of the sweetness out of shave ice, the steady companion of a Hawaiian childhood.

What to Cook: A Prescription for Comfort
When in doubt, go for some chicken (it encourages joy).

Four Seasons, Lunch Spot for Manhattan’s Prime Movers, Moves On
The restaurant, which redefined American dining and gave birth to the power lunch, is leaving the space it has occupied since 1959.

What to Cook: What to Cook This Weekend
Go crazy with corn (grill it, caramelize it, slurp it up in a chowder).

Eat: The Perfect Imperfections of Blueberry Pie
Solving the mysteries of a dessert that’s worth getting just right.

City Kitchen: How to Spot (and Use) the Best Summer Squash
The tiny ones are bitter; the giant ones are past their prime. Here’s how to find the ones you want.

Date-Stuffed Parathas
For a summery twist on this buttery flatbread, stuff it with dates and grill it.

The Pour: Etna Fumes and Spews, but the Winemaking Goes On
The existential threat is ever-present, yet the promise proves too tough to resist.

Hungry City: Burmese Food in New York: Hard to Find but Easy to Love
The search ends at two shoe box restaurants, Burmese Bites in Queens and Burma Noodle Bar in Brooklyn.

Ending the Ramadan Fast With an Indonesian Feast
A Boston chef scours the region for ingredients to recreate Eid al-Fitr meals from childhood.

Dateline/Los Angeles: American Chefs Adopt a Peruvian Staple: Tiger’s Milk
Leche de tigre powers a tuna dish at Son of a Gun in Los Angeles.

From Refugee Chefs, a Taste of Home
Two French entrepreneurs are using food to try to change perceptions of immigrants.

Restaurant Review: At Nix, Vegetables Get a Dash of Sex
This Greenwich Village restaurant joins a growing number of vegetarian places that celebrate verve more than virtue.

Gilding the Lily: Foie Gras With Chocolate
A singular extravagance, it is bitter yet mellow, and something you can make at home.

A Good Appetite: The Trick to Keeping Berry Cake Beautiful
Using a tart pan, not a cake pan, keeps the strawberries and blueberries from sinking and the baker from despairing.

City Kitchen: Spicy Cold Noodles Offer an Antidote to Summer Heat
With temperatures soaring, here are three little words of comfort: Korean! Cold! Noodles!

Pork Chops With Brandied Cherries
Cooking cherries in brandy adds sweetness to this meaty summer dish.

$7 for Corn Flakes? Cereal Gets Makeover at Kellogg’s Store in Times Square
Bowls of cereal will be served at Kellogg’s NYC, but the store operator says: “I’m not going to mess with your milk. That is such a personal thing.”

A Mood-Ring Ingredient Makes Cocktails Change Color
The butterfly pea flower is suddenly in demand at bars across the country.

Growing Greens in the Spare Room as ‘Vertical Farm’ Start-Ups Flourish
LED lighting and short growing periods have helped the rise of indoor farming, but scaling up is tougher.

Wine School: Your Next Lesson: Grüner Veltliner
Once a fad, a great summer wine gets another shot at proving its worth.

Wine School: There’s More to Rosé Than You May Think
Once freed from the tyranny of marketing clichés, a wine shows that it has much to offer.

Eat: Return of the Sun King
Reviving and updating Crab Louis, a perfect salad for a summer night.

Hungry City: Phil-Am Kusina, a Ray of Philippine Sun on Staten Island
The son of two North Shore grocers turns out generous portions and big flavors.

Fashioning Cast-Iron Pans for Today’s Cooks
New companies are making old-fashioned skillets with traditional handwork and modern technology.

Fresh Mango, Multiple Ways in a Single Dessert
A summer dish at Indian Accent in Midtown pays tribute to a fruit that is central to Indian tradition.

Dateline/Walland, Tenn.: A Fresh Take on ‘Put an Egg on It’
At Blackberry Farm, smoked chicken broth is embellished with grits, cracklings, peanuts and yes, an egg.

Restaurant Review: Freek’s Mill Spins Romance Near a Superfund Site
A new restaurant by the Gowanus Canal in Brooklyn conjures up an agrarian ideal.

Hungry City: The Crabby Shack, a Shrine to the Crustacean
Crab scuttles all over the menu at a former church in Crown Heights, Brooklyn.

Paul Draper of Ridge Vineyards to Retire
Over 47 years, he has been lionized as a leading light in American wine and has made Ridge one of the world’s most singular estates.

Buckwheat Berry Stripe Cake
Earthy buckwheat brings out the natural richness in butter to create a deliciously moist cake topped with mixed berries.

Restaurant Review: Grünauer Bistro Waltzes to a Time-Honored Tune
A new Austrian restaurant on the Upper East Side could have come straight from Yorkville’s past.

Making Mochi, a Japanese Treat That’s All About Texture
A Brooklyn pastry chef has mastered the age-old art. You can, too.

City Kitchen: A Cinnamon-Scented Soup to Break the Ramadan Fast
Harira, a soup with lentils, chickpeas and favas, is a staple of Ramadan in Morocco, but that doesn’t keep cooks from making it all year long.

Baghdad Journal: Falluja Restaurant Is Reborn in Baghdad, Offering Nostalgia With Its Kebab
Long before it became a haven for jihadists, the city of Falluja was known as the home of the Haji Hussein restaurant, where locals, soldiers, tourists and businessmen all ate.

City Kitchen: A Creamy, Sweet Tribute to Summer
This version of Sicilian cassata, a spongecake layered with sweetened ricotta, is crowned with juicy fresh berries.

Eat: How to Master Pierogies
Sometimes perfecting a dish means making it the same every time. And sometimes it means embracing change.

Hungry City: The Secret to District Saigon’s Broths: Slow Cooking
A new Vietnamese restaurant in Astoria, Queens, simmers its pho with patience and attention to ingredients.

Tasting Rosés With a Winemaker Who Knows Them Best
In the beginning, Sacha Lichine decamped to Provence simply wanting “to do something different.”

Gene Cavallero Jr., Who Ran the Colony Restaurant, Dies at 92
The Colony occupied a lofty perch in New York City’s dining scene, becoming a destination for boldface names like Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Frank Sinatra.

Restaurant Review: Poultry Has a Pedigree at Le Coq Rico
“Beautiful birds,” matured longer, are the attraction at this Manhattan spinoff of a Paris bistro.

Ravi DeRossi, New York Stealth Bar Owner and Restaurateur
No one knows much about the man behind all those establishments in the Village and Brooklyn. He’s O.K. with that.

Sichuan Cuisine, Imperiled by Success
In Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan Province, the region’s famed cuisine is more popular than ever. But traditionalists worry it’s drowning in spice.

The Secret to Zadie’s Poached Oysters? Seaweed
The chef Marco Canora offers a buttery nod to a bygone era at his new oyster room in the East Village.

Some of the World’s Best Dishes — All on One Menu
At In Situ, his new restaurant at SFMOMA, chef Corey Lee pays tributes to other famous chefs.

Osteria Francescana Tops List of World’s 50 Best Restaurants
The winner is in Modena, Italy. New York’s Eleven Madison Park rises to No. 3, and Copenhagen’s Noma slips to No. 5.

City Kitchen: A Crab Cake Ready for the Summer Party Circuit
Lush white béchamel dresses up the croqueta, a crisp Spanish cocktail snack.

A Tricky Recipe From the Past
For three days in 1971, the food media obsessed over a wedding cake recipe from the Nixon administration.

Italy’s Answer to Potato Chips? Taralli, of Course
In Southern Italy, these round crackers are everywhere. A Bay Area chef makes them even better — rich with olive oil and spicy with black pepper.

Soft Serve Ice Cream
Honey’s natural sweetness adds a rich depth to this homemade vanilla no-churn soft serve ice cream.

Drink: The American Way of Drinking

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